How to Make a Cyanotype at Home: A Step-by-Step Guide

Cyanotypes are a beautiful and historical photographic printing process that creates stunning blue-and-white prints. Whether you're an artist, a hobbyist, or simply someone looking for a fun DIY project, making cyanotypes at home is a rewarding experience. Here's everything you need to know to get started, including links to supplies so you can easily gather your materials.

What You'll Need

To create a cyanotype, you'll need the following materials:

1. Cyanotype Chemicals
   You’ll need two chemicals to create the photosensitive solution: Ferric Ammonium Citrate and Potassium Ferricyanide. Buy Cyanotype Chemicals. This links to the first kit I ever used. The bottles come with the pre-measured powdered chemicals and you just need to add water. Add the water slowly and carefully as it’s hard to see when you are reaching the top and easy to overflow. Leave for 24 hours before using it to give the iron salts time to fully dissolve.

2. Measuring Cup - You need to use equal parts of each of the chemicals so exact measurements are important. You’ll want to use some kind of measuring cup like this. The little cups that come with liquid medicine work perfectly too.

3. Glass Jar - This is for your mixed up chemicals. A glass jar is perfect and easy to wash and use again and again.

4. Watercolor Paper or Fabric
   Choose a surface to print on. Watercolor paper works beautifully, but you can also use natural fabrics like cotton, linen and silk. Synthetic fabrics like polyester will not work . Shop Watercolor Paper

5. Brush or Sponge
   A foam brush or a wide watercolor brush works well for coating your paper or fabric. Paint Brushes

6. Transparent Objects or Negatives
   You can use pressed leaves, flowers, or printed transparencies to create your design. Purchase Transparency Sheets

7. UV Light Source
   The sun is a free and effective UV light source, but you can also use a UV lamp for more control or for those cloudy, rainy days. These are the lamps that I use

8. Glass Sheet
   A glass sheet helps keep your objects or negatives in place during exposure. You can use the glass from old picture frames and thrift stores are a great place to find in expensive old frames.

9. Cardboard or Stiff Backing Board

   You’ll want to put your paper on top of a hard surface for easily transporting your cyanotypes into and out of the sun. This can be cardboard, wood or the backings of old picture frames.

10. Trays for Rinsing
    Shallow trays or pans for rinsing your prints in water. You don’t need anything fancy at all. A simple plastic bin will work great. As long as it’s a little bit bigger than your print.

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Prepare the Cyanotype Solution

Mix equal parts of the Ferric Ammonium Citrate and Potassium Ferricyanide solutions in a dimly lit room. The individual bottles of chemicals have a long shelf life but once you have mixed the 2 parts together it is only good for a few hours. So only mix up what you think you will use. A little goes a long way when painting it on paper. I usually start with 5ml or 10ml of each.

2. Coat Your Paper or Fabric

Using your brush or sponge, evenly coat your paper or fabric with a thin coat of the solution. Allow it to dry completely in a dark space to prevent premature exposure. Treated paper can be stored in the dark and be used later. Just make sure to store it in a black bag in a dark space like a closet or drawer.

3. Arrange Your Design

Place your objects or transparency negatives on the coated surface. Use a glass sheet to hold everything flat and in place.

4. Expose to UV Light

Take your prepared piece outside and expose it to sunlight for 5-15 minutes, depending on the intensity of the sun. Watch as the coated area turns from greenish-yellow to a dark bronze. Using a UV light usually requires a slightly longer exposure time. Approx 12-15 minutes. A lot of factors can effect the exposure time like the time of day, time of year, wattage of your UV light etc. It’s best to experiment with exposure times on smaller pieces of paper to get a feel for the best time for your desired effect.

5. Rinse Your Print

Carefully remove the objects and rinse your print in water for at least 5 minutes to wash away the unexposed chemicals. The image will transform into beautiful shades of blue as it develops. Your print will turn a deeper blue as it oxidizes over the next 12 hours but you can instantly deepen the blue by adding a splash of hydrogen peroxide to your rinse tray. Just give your print a rinse in fresh water before drying.

6. Dry and Enjoy

Allow your print to dry completely, and you’re done!

Tips for Success

• Experiment with exposure times to achieve different shades of blue.

• Use high-quality paper or fabric for the best results.

• Protect your workspace with plastic or old newspapers, as the chemicals can stain.

• The chemicals are non-toxic but try to avoid direct contact with your skin by wearing rubber gloves.

• Store unmixed chemicals in a cool, dark place.

• Clean your tools and trays after each session.

Inspiration and Sharing

• Visit my Instagram / Website / Gallery for inspiration, tips and behind the scenes images!

• Tag me when you share your prints because I would love to see your creations!

  Join my newsletter to be the first to know when I add more dates for my Blue Magic cyanotype workshop!

Note: Some of the links provided are Amazon affiliate links which means if you purchase items through those links I will receive a very small commission. This is at no additional cost to you. Happy printing!